Chiang Rai after dark, on foot
Chiang Rai's night bazaar is smaller, cheaper and considerably less photographed than Chiang Mai's. Which is precisely why the food is better and the walk is shorter.
Six stops, one street
The night bazaar runs along Thanon Phahonyothin from the clock tower, and the food is at the back where the locals eat rather than the front where the souvenirs are. We start with sai ua — northern pork sausage, herb-heavy, grilled over charcoal — then nam ngiao, a tomato and pork-rib noodle that is the north's real signature dish and almost never appears on a Bangkok menu.
Then khao soi, if the stall is running, then a grilled river fish, then the two things people always ask about afterwards: khao lam (sticky rice roasted in bamboo) and a bag of small, extremely hot northern chillies to take home.
What to expect
Groups are capped at eight. We eat standing up at plastic tables, we order in Thai, and there is no restaurant component — this is a market walk, not a dinner. Vegetarians are easy to accommodate in the north, which surprises people; tell us at booking.
Clock tower, 18:00
The clock tower is the one landmark in Chiang Rai nobody can miss, and it lights up on the hour with a fifteen-minute colour change that is more entertaining than it has any right to be. We finish there.
| Stop | Time | What it is |
|---|---|---|
| Sai ua & sticky rice | 18:10 | Northern pork sausage |
| Nam ngiao | 18:45 | Tomato and pork-rib noodles |
| Khao soi | 19:20 | If the stall is open |
| Grilled river fish | 19:50 | Salt-crusted, table-side |
| Khao lam & market sweets | 20:30 | Sticky rice in bamboo |
| Clock tower | 21:00 | Light show on the hour |
Guide, all six tastings, drinking water, one soft drink. Not included: alcohol, tips.
Before you book
Is the food very spicy?
Northern food is milder than southern or north-eastern. Nam ngiao has heat but it is a chilli paste on the side; you control it. We ask at booking and adjust the route.
Can you cater for vegetarians?
Yes, and better than most cities in Thailand — the north uses a lot of vegetables and soy. Tell us when you book and we swap the sausage and fish stops.
Is it suitable for children?
Yes. It is flat, short and finished by nine. Children under six usually run out of interest around stop four, which is fine — the clock tower is a good finish.
What if it rains?
The bazaar is partly covered and we reroute under the awnings. If it is heavy we move to two covered stalls and a noodle shop nearby, and you still eat.
Join a walk.
Tell us the evening and how many of you — groups are capped at eight, so dates do close.
Written and checked by the Travel Thailand Tour team, Bangkok · Last updated · Prices are per person and were correct at the time of writing.